Good run today. I don’t recall when I woke up but it was 40 degrees outside. It took a few minutes to get me out of the tent and I had to unpack my trusty KOA hoodie. Grabbed a cold shower as I’d missed any hot water that was available. After showering I was invited next door for breakfast. I’ll rarely pass up free food and almost never pass up good company.
We spent a good amount of time just talking and enjoying the company of a new friend. That’s what I love about camping, you don’t get that kind of interaction in a hotel. I finally had to get camp broke down and get on the road. Once Libby was loaded, David and I traded info and bid each other goodbye and safe travels. Headed out around 10:00.
It was the latest I’ve ever started out that I can remember, but I don’t have anywhere I “need” to be. My goal for today is to get into Yellowstone National Park and see what I can then try to make it to Casper, Wyoming. From camp to Casper is less than 400 miles so it should be a short day.
Camp is only a few miles outside of the park so we got there quickly, passing through the town of West Yellowstone, an absolute tourist town. We made our way to the gate and waited in line to get int the park. Wasn’t long, only about 15 minutes. Once we got there I probably could have gotten in free if I’d just played along. I put the kickstand down and turned the bike off per usual. She old me, “I don’t need to see it, just go.” I of course had to ask, “What?” She asked if I had a pass and I told her no so ended up paying the $30 entry fee. Twenty years ago I might have said yes and scooted on through but I’ve become too honest for my wallet.
Before entering the park we’re already in trees. Most of this part of the park is trees, plenty of open areas with golden bushes hedged together. Beautiful landscape to say the least. Our first wildlife encounter is with a solitary bison. Out in the middle of one of the golden fields. I stopped to get a shot just because I’ve learned that expecting to see wildlife doesn’t mean you will.
Wasn’t long before we hit traffic. It’s all two lane road through the park and speed limits don’t get above 45. We sat in traffic for a an hour before coming to the cause. A park ranger sped by us with his lights on so I figured it was some sort of accident. It ended up just being the bison herd. Most were on the right just lounging around but a few stragglers hung out on the left side of the road. Those who didn’t pull off to get pictures simply slowed to a stop to get their shots causing the traffic. No accident, no carnage, no poor animal hit by someone not paying attention, just humans being humans, not worrying about anyone but themselves. I pulled off to get my photos.
Finally out of the thick of it and just a couple hundred yards down the road was another pull off for a geyser, pools and mud pots. All very cool to see and very sulfuric when caught downwind of the fumes. This was a park and walk area so after making the trek we were back on the road. Still surrounded by trees the road followed a the river. We eventually made our way to Old Faithful. This is where the main park stuff is, lodges, restaurants and shops. And why not, Old Faithful is the most famous part Yellowstone.
We got there just in time see the geyser finish spewing boiling water into the air. By the time I was able to actually get close enough she’d finished her show. Next one in an hour and a half. We’re not waiting. It’s gotten a bit cloudy and rain is not what I want to encounter. It’s lunch time now but I know the restaurants are going to be packed and they are, I can see the lines out the door as we leave out.
By this point I’m mostly done with the park. I just want out. I’m enjoying the ride but there’s too many people who don’t know what they want to do. I’m turning left, no I’m not. I’m pulling off, no I’m not. It’s getting aggravating and it’s starting to sprinkle. I’m not stopping to suit up. We’re getting wet or getting out of it.
We finally made it out of the park after 1:00 but it’s still slow going through Grand Teton. The road follows river for most of the day. Twists and turns through mountains and valleys. It’s 2:00 by the time I hit roads with 65mph speed limits or more. About 300 miles to Casper now. The road follows a river most of the day which is always nice because it means the road isn’t straight.
The first town out of the Yellowstone mountains is Dubois. It’s on the larger side of the towns we’ll run through. We came around a corner and the mountains changed drastically. I thought I was back in Arizona for a minute. Red and grey striped mountains were on our left. The grey brown desert hills of West Texas and New Mexico on our right. Was kind of trippy.
We were back to 70mph roads that still followed a river, the Wind River if I remember right. Had a few wind issues through this area, was getting gusty and rain was looming. I skipped lunch altogether because I know if I stop the rain will catch me. But it starts to fall. The smoke is still holding back to the horizon so I can actually see the rain in the area. My shirt begins to get weight and I’m concerned it’s about to dump on me but I get out of it. The road never gets very wet and neither do I. We somehow snake our way out of it. .
The last 130 miles reminds me of West Texas and New Mexico. There’s nothing out here but grass and 12″ shrubs. I thought about stopping in Riverton but the sun is still pretty high in the sky, I can make Casper before dark. Was mostly uneventful riding now. Not much to see and passing lanes every 5-10 miles. I can book it pretty good. And I was doing just that until one curve. We came into a curve and an oncoming car moved from their lane to mine to avoid some tire shrapnel. They didn’t swerve, they moved. I thought he was distracted or falling asleep or something but everything in me dropped and screamed f*ck. But I kept my cool, didn’t panic and followed my exit. If you want to live long enough to ride tomorrow you have to always have an exit plan. The exit plan changes constantly but only if you are aware enough to change it. I was able to slow without locking a wheel and moved to the shoulder. I didn’t know why he was moving into my lane until I got right up on him and noticed the shrapnel. The largest chunks were on his shoulder, easily avoidable without leaving his lane. The rest was so small I’d have ridden over it on Libby without issue. He got an earful he didn’t hear and a few hand gestures. My heart rate was up for ten miles but I did everything right and didn’t end up in his back seat.
We carried on hitting small towns. We’d slow to 35mph and see the town sign showing a population of 40 or 10. Neither of those is a typo. We actually made it to Casper around 6:00. I opted for a room because I’m beat. We didn’t put in 400 miles but it may as well of been 700. Stopped at my usual and turns out there’s a big soccer tournament this weekend. No rooms. I did find one and will get a good night sleep before heading in some direction tomorrow. Don’t know the direction yet. Game time decision. Day’s photos below.
The Motorcycle Diaries of an Easy Rider 