Yet another chilly start today. Temps were in the mid 50’s by the time I rolled out of camp. Was up early today. Trains came back through around 3:00am, horns a’blarin’. Never really got back to good sleep after that. Crawled out of the tent at 6:30 and started tearing down camp and left out right at 8:00.
It’s only a couple of miles to the Idaho border so we got there quickly, hit the next exit and head back to Washington. I was able to get far enough off the road to get a photo so mission accomplished. Another turn around and back into Idaho headed towards Missoula, Montana. It was a quick trip to Coeur d’Alene then into the forested Rocky Mountains we went.
We started with amazing, no… phenomenal views of a lake that I fail to remember the name of. The road ran high above it then, after a few miles, came right up next to it. We’d wind our way through small villages like Wolf Lodge, Cataldo and Mullan. There aren’t any hairpin turns just more of the easy curves we’ve seen so far. It’s mountain interstate so there isn’t anything too dramatic. But the road crosses Clark Fork no less two dozen times and even runs along side it at a few points. The smoke has gotten worse, not much of a view when there should be. I’m hoping it’ll give way once we come out the other side. It doesn’t.
As smoky as it was it’s still a nice ride through the mountains. However, I opted once again to leave my jacket stowed away. I was chilly to start out and didn’t have the shakes when I made my first pit stop. I debated unpacking it but I figure it’s got to warm up soon. It does warm up, but not soon.
We hit Missoula right around lunch time. I crossed the time zone somewhere and lost an hour but we’re still making good time. Can’t recall the name of the joint now but they had really good roast beef sandwich. I was hot and helped knock out the shakes that I finally got from the chilly morning. By the time I left out again the temps had risen just enough to keep the chill off.
The smoke isn’t getting better as we get out of the mountains, it’s getting worse. Today is the first time I can actually smell it. The mountains pushed away from the road and farmland and pastures started to appear. The mountains could barely be seen. When the pushed back further they couldn’t be seen at all save the tallest peaks. At one point visibility was a couple of miles at best. My eyes, nose and throat are burning but we pushed onward towards Yellowstone.
Stopped to gas up in Butte and was told that the smoke had been like this for the last month. Were about 150 miles to West Yellowstone now. About 100 miles out we’re off the interstate and back on two lane road. It starts simple enough but begins to turn into twistys quickly. I love twistys but a hundred miles takes a long time. It didn’t last long but what a great road. Rock walls towered above me on the left and the Boulder River flowed steadily on my right.
A few miles and back to open fields. As we neared Yellowstone more and more little lodges popped up. Looked like bed and breakfasts for the outdoorsman. At one point a small group of antelope (I think) crossed the road, right in the middle of town. Bet they’d be good on the smoker. Started to catch some sprinkles about 40 miles out. Concerned me a bit because there’s almost no where to turn off out here and certainly no cover. But the smoke has lessened and the sun is out so it can’t be much rain if any. I can’t see any clouds that look bad. Sprinkles is all I got, big ones but just that.
We got to camp right at 5:00pm. Good time for losing an hour. I’d meant to go to a different camp but there’s apparently two of them on this road, just a mile and a half apart. Doesn’t matter, I’ll stay at either. Before heading out for dinner I’d met my closest neighbor, David and his wife, don’t remember her name. We had a good conversation that started with the usual questions about your travels and led to brief talks about our fathers, faith and the state of the world we live in. A lot to discuss in 15 minutes.
I set out for town to find something to eat. We’re about 8 miles out so it takes a minute to get into town. West Yellowstone is an absolute tourist town. People everywhere and parking is hard to find, even for a bike. Stopped in at the Slippery Otter. Menu isn’t great so opted for a small 8″ pizza for the low low price of $18. Definitely a tourist town.
Back at camp now. It’s already chilly and I’ve unpacked my trusty Willits, CA KOA sweater. Feels a bit tighter since last time I actually wore it. Got my camp fire going which I realize is kind of stupid. I’ve been sucking in smoke all day and here I am sitting next to the source. But still, there’s something about a fire when you’re camping.
So now this trip’s mission is accomplished. No where I have to be until Tuesday. No more self imposed time constraints or worrying about getting somewhere specific on time. Tomorrow I can go anywhere, just follow the road until I decide to quit. At least for a couple of days. I’ll likely check the weather and make a decision from there. I’m thinking a short day to Casper, Wyoming. I want to see Yellowstone a bit so 400+ miles isn’t going to happen. I’ve also got family in Colorado I’d like to see. They’re out of town but I can still make it to see them. It’s smoky there still and weather will play a factor but maybe I can get over to visit.
End note – Just had a visitor. A fox ran right past me at the table. Was a blur and I thought it was a cat but shined my light on him and sure hell, a red fox sitting not ten feet from me. He circle Libby and came to the other side of me. Took off before I could get a good photo. He’ll be out here all night I’m sure. Also just received a bear spray loaner from the neighbor complete with full instruction on how to use it. Should sleep well tonight.
The Motorcycle Diaries of an Easy Rider 