Well, we didn’t make it home today. We’re on slow moving roads for a good portion of the day, but we’ll get into that. It’s a nice cool 72 degrees starting out and overcast, but it’s warm enough that I don’t need my jacket. It’s possible we run into some rain later but nothing to serious, radar is predicting small pockets of precipitation so if we hit anything it won’t last long.
Our first stop for the day is a quick 30 miles down the road. It’s the Post Theater at Fort Clark Springs. Fort Clark was established in 1852 and lasted until 1944 when the full mechanization of the calvary caused the government to shut down the fort, one of the last horse calvary posts in the country. The theater was built in 1932 and was a popular spot. The fort has since been turned into a guest ranch and is near some springs that apparently stay 68 degrees all year long.
From Fort Clark it’s just under 100 miles to our second stop. The first town in our path is Rocksprings and is just at 60 miles away. The road is two lane and very narrow with absolutely no shoulder. The road has steep rises and falls as well as several slow curves. We pass a few ranches but the view is mostly tall, bushy trees that line the roadway. We’re all alone out here. Of the entire 60 mile run we pass only for other vehicles, three of those in the last five miles.
Finally reaching Rocksprings I pull off to grab some water. The town smells of breakfast, which is odd. I’ve pulled up to an IHOP or Waffle House and smelled breakfast, but never the whole town. But breakfast smells good and it’s certainly better than manure. We’re on Highway 377 coming out of Rocksprings and it’s a nice, wide two-lane road that runs fast at 75mph and has wide sweeping curves. We’re only 40 miles from our next stop and at this pace we’ll make quick work of it. But 20 miles in the speed limit drops to 55, and for good reason.
The road begins to rise into the hills again. More slow curves as the road rises and falls with the land. There’s still very little traffic which is good because if I hit any rain I’ll really be moving slow.
The second stop of the day is the Telegraph Store and Post Office. High in the hills, the store has two old gas pumps out front and is partially covered in flowering vines. From here we have to backtrack the 20 miles through the hills. It’s the same curvy road but riding it in reverse is a totally different ride than coming in.
Finally out of the hills we turn off onto 41 and though it continues through the hills, it’s much flatter and has wider curves. We eventually turn onto Highway 83 which runs right through Leakey (pronounced Lay-key). It’s another fast moving road with just a few slower curves. As we near Leakey I realize that I am dangerously low on gas. Leakey is a small town but I know there’s gas here as I’ve been here before, I just have to find it. I’m pretty much running on fumes now and I know that the road I’m turning onto has nothing but our next tour stop on it. I pull off and ask a local standing outside. We’re close and I’m able to fill up.
Our third stop of the day is the Frio Canyon Motorcycle Stop and Bent Rim Grill. It’s basically the hub for what is known as the Three Twisted Sisters, three state roads that contain a whole lot of twisties through the surrounding canyons. Dad and I made the run several years ago and it was and absolutely amazing ride, but not one I want to do on a 1,200lbs bike. In planning I had considered stopping here in Leakey, getting a room to unload Laurelin and make the run. It’d be an early stop but the run, unless you’re a maniac, will take you a good two hours. I’m just going to grab lunch here and carry on.
I head into the shop for a new t-shirt. The one I got on my trip with Dad has been worn and washed an uncountable number of times and could use replacing. The Bent Rim Grill has several options but I know they’ve got a good burger as I’ve had them a few times. They have very little for indoor seating. Most of their seating is outdoors. On a good day during the summer this place is packed with dozens of bikes out front. Not so busy on a Monday afternoon.
It’s still overcast when I pull into the Bent Rim Grill but leaving out the cloud cover has started to break up a bit. Ranch roads 335, 336 and 337 make up the Three Twisted Sisters and 337 is the road I have to take to get to our next stop.
I’ve never been on this part of 337 but it’s much like the part I have been on. Steep curving climbs and steep dropping curves. The curves are very tight, most are 20mph curves and one is an extremely tight 10mph. I spend most of my time on the clutch and on the brakes. I also hug the rock face as I’ve seen too many videos of and even in person instances of people taking these curves too fast and entering the lane of oncoming traffic. It’s a very slow ride and, while fun, can be nerve-wracking.
Ranch Road 337 eventually flattens out and we get to our next stop, the main house at the Flying L Ranch in Bandera. It does however take me a minute to find as I miss my turn in and end up on the opposite side of the ranch, dead ended by one of their maintenance sheds. The ranch offers a ton of accommodations from cabins to bunk houses. It has two bar and grills and even a full 18-hole golf course. Inside the main house is definitely a sportsman vibe.
Our final tour stop for the day is in Hondo and is a mural for which no address is given. Only a hint is provided and it’s pretty simple, the location is in the mural. It’s already 4:30 when I reach this tour stop, I’m not getting home today so we’ll push on to San Antonio to stay the night.
It’s a short ride to San Antonio and signs of the city soon appear, traffic being the biggest one. Traffic move well all the way into town but its crazy, as is most big city traffic. Dinner is at The Hangar and an order of wings and fried pickles hits the spot.
We’re only a couple of hours from home and only have one tour stop left on this trip. I should be able to get a couple of dealership stops in tomorrow to add to my Texas poker chip collection. We will undoubtedly be home tomorrow.
The Motorcycle Diaries of an Easy Rider 