Slept well last night and was up on time today but I didn’t get out until about 9:00. I’ve got to start getting on the road earlier. It’s a cool crisp morning with blue skies. Our first stop today is in Seymour, where we should have ended up last night. But I’m glad we didn’t, there’s nothing there.
The landscape opens up shortly after leaving Graham. It’s flat and there’s some ranch lands but it’s mostly empty crop fields as harvest has already happened. It’s only about 55 miles into Seymour and 75mph the whole way save for passing through a few small towns. We get there in just about an hour.
First top of the day is the Whiteside Museum of Natural History. It looks like it’s a museum full of dinosaurs and other prehistoric animals. They’re not quite open yet but I don’t have time to go in anyway, we’re making up time from yesterday. Our next stop is in Amarillo and is 180 miles away, the longest single stretch so far.
Leaving out of Seymour the landscape changes almost immediately. We’re on two lane farm road and the flat land gives way to brush covered red dirt hills. The road twists, turns and cuts through the land. The road itself isn’t great, but the ride is. The green brush contrasts perfectly with the red hills making beautiful scenery. This lasts for several miles before we turn off onto FM267. The roadway is better but the landscape returns to flat ranchlands. Not many crop fields now, just mostly ranchland.
It’s just a few more miles down the road before we reach our next turn. It’s a stop sign at a T-intersection. As I get close to it I notice a lone calf on the side of the road and on the wrong side of the fencing. The stop sign I am approaching has a good sized shoulder so I decide to pull off real quick to jot down some notes. Little did I know that this was a bad idea and that one of my worst fears was about to be realized.
The shoulder was loose dirt and gravel, nothing I haven’t stopped on before, but it was soft. As I pulled to a stop, the front wheel caught, flipped to the left and Laurelin started to tip. I gave all my strength and will to keep her upright but it just wasn’t enough. It did help to put her down lightly. But now I have to get her back up, and she’s not even budging. I’m in the middle of nowhere and need help. Luckily, that little calf I mentioned saves me. His owner is pulling onto the road to get him back inside the fence. I flag him down and he pulls off to help, after he get’s his calf of course. His buddy also comes around to help and while we wait for the first rancher to return, he offers to pray for me. I can use all the help I can get out here, so yeah, go for it.
I’ve removed my bag and camping gear to lessen the weight and between the three of us, Laurelin is upright again. I do a quick check and can’t find any scratches. I thank the gentlemen for all their help and the carry on about their day. I then begin to reload my gear. In all it’s about a 20 minute delay. I know she’s just a machine, but even now, I feel bad about literally letting her down.
Back on our way it’s a couple more short stints on two lane farms roads before getting to highway 287, a 75mph four lane that runs through more flat and wide open land all the way into Amarillo. I’ve got even more time to make up now so there’s no stopping except for one gas stop.
It’s been cool most of the day so far and it’s still a clear sky. We reach our next stop at the Slug Bug Ranch right at 1:00. Cadillac Ranch is well known here in Amarillo and is a row of several Cadillacs buried upright with their noses in the ground and heavily spray painted with graffiti from visitors. Slug Bug Ranch is the same only with Volkswagen Beetles. Not sure what the cars in the back are. There’s a small shop nearby that offers cold drinks, cold beer and spray paint. The whole area is covered in graffiti, much like Cadillac Ranch.
There’s one more stop here in Amarillo and that’s Tripp’s Harley-Davidson. It’s just a few extra miles west on I-40 in and out quickly with my poker chips. It’s lunch time now and though i should skip it in for the sake of time, I don’t want to. Texas Firehouse Sports Bar & Grill is just around the corner so I head there. The Cuban Grilled Cheese is what I decide. I love a Cuban sandwich but this just is different as it uses pulled pork and is on Texas toast. It’s good.
The next stop is in Pampa and only about an hour away. We’re on I-40 for about 15 miles before getting onto more four lane. The land here is flat but it’s in wind turbine country and in a gusty winds area. We’re moving fast but the road is straight with very few curves which makes for a very boring ride aside from the occasional gust of wind. The railroad runs parallel to it and there’s multiple tracks. I can’t see how many but there’s a train running in both directions the whole way into Pampa. I have to pull off in White Deer to get a water and some sunflower seeds. I’m getting drowsy just running in a straight line and seeds are a good way to keep me active. They fit perfect in my left front vest pocket and can easily be grabbed when needed. Finally into Pampa, it’s a quick stop for my photo then back on to the next.
The next stop is in Borger. Getting here is a short ride, only about 30 miles. The ride is much nicer than the run to Pampa. The wind stops and the land begins to roll, the road with it. We’re now twisting our way through the country side. And there’s nothing out here. Just empty land. We reach Borger quickly and arrive at Antelope Creek Leather. I don’t go in as I don’t need any leather right now. I could use a new jacket but mine still works just fine.
Coming out of Borger we get back into more flat landscapes and soon come into corn fields. We’re back on farm roads and eventually end up on one that’s a whole lot of fun. The first four miles is extremely bumpy. I can’t keep my feet on the floorboards as they keep bouncing off. Finally we get out of that and head into more flat lands. The road runs for 18 miles and is straight the whole way. It also runs through the land of wind turbines. There’s hundreds so of them. I run for miles and they just keep coming, I’m completely surrounded by them.
We eventually turn of onto back roads. The road I turn off on looks like is has loose gravel on it so I slow down almost to a stop to check and though it looks loose, it’s solid. The road turns narrow quickly and I’m now on true back roads. There’s nothing out here except for cows, horses and still wind turbines. The road eventually turns into loose gravel road. It’s decent but runs slowly, a lot of slow 20mph turns. I finally reach the Oklahoma border, I’d not know it if not for a GPS notification. The road is better now but we soon turn off onto unpaved road. Six miles worth of it before finally reaching our first stop outside the state of Texas.
Our first Republic of Texas stop is the No Man’s Land Historical Museum. We’re certainly in no man’s land. I’ve got another 50 miles to go in order to get back on my schedule and it’s already almost 6:00 so going in isn’t going to happen, they’re probably closed already anyway.
Heading out we get onto Highway 84, a split four lane and I’ve never been happier to see one. My arms and hands are sore after running so long on those back roads, and truthfully, I don’t think back roads is the right description for those words. Those roads were something extra.
It’s only 50 miles into Kansas but will take about an hour as we have to pass through a couple small towns. The first town we come to is Guymon and we stop for gas. It takes a good while to get though town and back up to speed. Hooker and Tyrone are the only other towns we have to slow down for. Hooker isn’t bad and Tyrone is almost pointless to slow down through, there’s nothing there on this stretch of road.
We finally make it into Liberal, Kansas and our second Republic of Texas stop, the Dorothy statue at Dorothy’s House and Land of Oz. The statue is not what I was expecting. I’m expecting the likeness of Judy Garland but I don’t see it. There is a bunch of yellow bricks placed in front of it with names etched into them, not sure what that’s about. There’s also a wall of names behind the statue, the title reading simply “Dorothy”. Not sure what that means either.
Dinner is at Midtown Pizzeria and Pub. I had pizza last night and don’t really want to repeat but outside of fast food there’s a BBQ joint and 32 Mexican restaurants. Count’s probably off but close. It’s a nice place and I immediately strike up conversation with another biker. I’m parked right out front so he saw me pull up. I’ve not even ordered a drink yet. We talk for few minutes before I break away to get to some food. I get a drink and before I can order food I am confronted by another patron. He’s obviously a regular here and just wants to talk. There’s two of them actually but the one is exceptionally talkative. Not that I mind, I love meeting and talking to new people, but I’d really like to look at the menu and order something to eat.
I eventually do get to order and we continue talking, sports mostly. I also learn that the whole Dorothy thing is a town wide ordeal and according to them, not well loved by most of the citizens. The city apparently spent 30k on a red ruby show slide place in front of the Dorothy house. I don’t know how much of that is true, I can just take their word for it.
Tomorrow is mostly a travel only day. I plan on one stop at a dealership then on to stay the night with a cousin and her family. Always excited to see them. For now it’s bed time. See you tomorrow.
The Motorcycle Diaries of an Easy Rider 