Today was yet another adventure. What was supposed to be a short day of just over 300 miles turned out to be rather long. I woke around 7:00 which was actually an hour earlier local time. We’re close enough to the time zone change that my phone hasn’t updated itself.
It’s a mass exodus as I break camp. Several of the RV’s are already headed out, a couple from Texas. We’re back on the road by 8:00 and head north towards South Dakota. The road is moving well with numerous curves and swells. The landscape is mostly rolling grassland. We soon cross the North Platte River and the morning sun reflecting of it’s surface creates a beautiful scene. I’ve got to turn around to grab a photo, it’s nothing super special but you’ll have to wait until tomorrow to see it (I’ll explain later).
After crossing back over the river the road straightens out for several miles. We reach the little town of Oshkosh and stop for our first fill up. There’s several other bikers fueling up here as well, turns out they’re Banditos out of Texas. The Banditos are a motorcycle club and a part of the 1%ers as are the Hell’s Angels and the Outlaws. They aren’t very talkative and don’t seem to want anything to do with me but they aren’t giving me any cause for concern. That is until one of them points out that my rear tire is low. One of them pulls out a portable compressor and helps me get the tire inflated. Now I’ve got to worry about it all day.
The landscape turns into more farmland for a bit but the road is still moving well, the river is out of view but just on my right side. At Bridgeport we cut north to Alliance. I’m good on gas still but need to check this tire. It’s been about 80 miles and it’s low again so I find the air pump and fill the tire back up.
Farmland has started to thin out and the rolling grasslands have begun to dominate the landscape. The road continues to curve and dip, which I enjoy, but I’m still thinking about this tire. The last town in Nebraska is Chadron then a couple of straight runs before crossing into South Dakota. It’s been all two lane roads so far but as soon as we hit the state line the road opens up to a divided four lane highway.
It isn’t long before I reach the almost unnoticeable town of Oelrichs. I pass a single pump gas station and decide to turn around, the next town is another 25 miles and I’m low on fuel. Rear tire is low again but, surprisingly, there is air available here. There’s a lot going on on the back end of Libby. Saddle bags and pipes make airing the tire difficult. A hot tire, rim and pipes make things worse. I’ve got multiple burns on my hands and arms, nothing serious though.
The gas pump here is old school, really old school. It’s pump, then pay and you have to lift the handle after removing the nozzle. The air pump has a long extension on it which makes airing the tire all the more difficult. I get almost full when I hear a soft pop and then continuous hiss. Not good.
Oelrichs has a population of around 100. There’s no dealership here and likely no bike shop, besides, it’s a holiday, no one is open today. Joyce, the lady behind the counter is super helpful. While I’m on the phone with roadside assistance she’s making calls of her own. Roadside is going to cost me about $800 so I quickly shut that down. It takes some time but Joyce is able to find me someone to trailer me up to the Rapid City Harley dealership. $250 is the agreed upon charge and we’re soon headed north again, in a car. It was just after noon when I landed in Oelrichs and it’s now almost 2:00.
Doc, and his wife heather, are my ride. Conversation is good as we share our stories. The wind begins to pick up as a storm system rolls forward ahead of us. We hit a little rain but most of it has passed by the time we get into Rapid City. The dealership is empty when we arrive. It’s Monday so, regardless of the holiday, they’re closed. We offload Libby and park her next to the service department side of the building. The plan is to call first thing in the morning to let them know what’s going on and that I’ll be needing a new tire. Then calling a ride up there to get Libby back.
Libby’s locked down. I’ve got everything that can’t be locked up plus my toiletry bag. The rest will just have to stay, including my camera. I’m fully prepared to call an Uber of Lyft to take me to a hotel but Doc and Heather are willing to get me to where I need to be. It’s a hotel tonight, which was the plan to begin with. They wait to make sure a room is available before we say our goodbyes and wish each other well.
It’s just after 4:00 when I settle in. I’m hungry but want to wait a little longer before getting dinner. I’ve missed lunch but still don’t want to eat too early. Shortly after 5:00 another round of storms begins to pass through. It’s more rain than I’ve seen in months, and it’s still not of any benefit to me.
Dinner is Outback Steakhouse. It’s not within the rules but my options are a bit limited. I’m now on foot and it’s the closest place within walking distance. I opt for a steak dinner tonight, it feels necessary and always sounds good. The rain had started before I walked over and got heavier as I ate but I never noticed much of a storm. I do get a bit wet walking back to my hotel though.
I don’t like being stuck without a ride, especially so far from home. And I certainly don’t like not being able to see Libby. My anxiety levels are high to say the least. But I am confident that this massive dealership in Rapid City will have the tire I need, overly priced as per Harley standards. I am also confident that, though I may lose a day of riding, all will be right again. Libby and I will be reunited and run through the Black Hills and surrounding area. It’s still light rain now but hopefully that clears out overnight and I can get at least a half day in tomorrow.
Of the best and worst rides I’d probably have to say this has been the worst so far. Though I hate categorizing any of these trips as bad or worst. Every single trip has been an adventure, but adventure isn’t always good (or cheap). I already know that at least the first half of tomorrow will suck, and that’s fine, I’ll get through it. Plus, it’s all a part of the stories I get to tell later.
Stranded in South Dakota 😦
The Motorcycle Diaries of an Easy Rider 