ND/Texas Tour Ride – Day Seven

What a glorious day to ride! Woke up later than I wanted but slept well. Started the day chilly and wet. I hung up everything I could last night so that it could dry out – rain suit, jacket and sweater. They all dried out beautifully. My gloves on the other hand were still a bit wet on the inside. I suited up and hit the road.

Rain was light as I headed out of town towards today’s first stop, a short 80 miles away. I was hoping the rain would let up shortly and be gone for the remainder of this trip. It was steady for several miles, never very heavy but it kept the roads wet. The scenery had changed completely from yesterday. I’m sure it changed before I stopped yesterday but I was getting dumped on and didn’t see much.

The West Texas desert had returned to farmland. Soybean and corn. Most of the cornfields had already been harvested and were nothing more than a field of six inch stalks. The farmland eventually gave way to scenery that I’m more familiar with. Fields of grass, mostly yellow or brown but occasionally green, all filled with bushes and trees. Coverage varied from very little to very dense.

The rain began to let up about 30 miles into our day. And although the sky remained overcast, the roads began to dry out. We started out heading towards Rochelle, TX but we really needed to find highway 377. Our first stop does not have an address. It’s actually one of those historical markers we all see and pass without ever thinking to stop.

Stop one for today is the Geographical Center of Texas, or the sign that tells you about it. According to the sign the actual location is five miles northwest of this location, likely on private land. The coordinates of this spot divide the state into four equal parts. I won’t go into all the details given on this sign but will post a photo of it below should you choose to read it.

I decided to go ahead and change my cold gloves out for my regular riding gloves. The temps are cool but not too cold for my hands and it’s still dry. I’m keeping the rain suit for now. On to stop number two.

Stop two is Baby Head Cemetery. Another stop with no address and also another historical marker. The ride over was pretty good. The sky was still overcast but the roads leading to this marker were the best I’d hit so far this trip. Two lanes rising and falling, twisting and turning with the land. Can’t ask for much better.

We wound our way into San Saba and headed south towards Cherokee. This cemetery is located between Cherokee and Llano. The sign here reads, “According to local oral tradition, the name Babyhead was given to the mountain in this area in the 1850’s, when a small child was killed by indians and it’s remains left on the mountain. A local creek also carried the name, and a pioneer community, founded in the 1870’s became known as Baby Head. The oldest documented grave here is that of another child, Jodie May McKneely, who died on New Year’s Day 1884. The cemetery is the last physical reminder of the Baby Head community, which once boasted numerous homes, farms and businesses.”

At this point I’ve decided I’ve got to get out of my rain suit. I really don’t want to take it off until the sky clears up a bit but I feel good about my chances. That feeling good hasn’t worked out the best so far but I’m chancing it again. So I got the suit packed away and headed on towards Llano. It’s lunch time now so I go to the one place you should, Cooper’s. I’d been here before and wasn’t super impressed but is is good BBQ. After a thick slice of brisket, some sausage and a cold Miller I was on my way to stop number three.

Stop three is just about 20 miles from Llano, a straight shot down Highway 29. The ride over was all four lane and mostly towny stuff. Small businesses and some homes. But I did catch a quick glimpse of Buchanan Lake. We made it to the Hill Country Motorheads motorcycle museum in no time. I’d thought I’d been here before but I haven’t. That was another museum that is probably in my path tomorrow. I considered going in, but I could spend all day in a place like this and this place is close enough to home that I can come back on a day trip.

I was getting warm at this point and decided to get the sweater off. I can probably keep the jacket for the rest of the day. It should be cool enough on the road to wear it without overheating. I’d rather wear it than try to repack it mid-day.

On to the next stop. The next place we’re going is near Johnson City, the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park. Need another park sign photo. Much of the scenery today was the same. Very little in the way of farm land, mostly fields of grass with varying densities of trees and brush. I’ve started to see more livestock by now, mostly goats but some cattle as well.

Getting to this point was one of the longest for the day, 50 miles. We’re still on four lane highway but this is moving a lot more. Plenty of turns to keep me satisfied and plenty of vertical movement as well. By the time we hit Marble Falls the overcast clouds had broken up and the sun had reappeared for the first time in three days.

We started to get close to Johnson City and our turn towards the park when traffic hit. A sudden stand still and since the road dipped and turned, no indication as to why. Slow moving bumper to bumper traffic. It’s still pretty cool out, maybe low 70’s at this point which normally wouldn’t be too bad. But I’ve still got my jacket on, and about 230 degrees between my legs – I’m referring to the bike of course. I’m getting hot but not roasting like the last time.

We slowly get across the Pedernales River and I can start to see some emergency vehicle lights. Never a good sign but expected with traffic like this. We finally get to the front of this and see all sorts first responder vehicles. A fire truck blocks both our lanes and we are being routed to a side road while four different law enforcement vehicles start to leave. There was no sign of any reason for this to be happening so I can only assume it was the tail end of a traffic accident.

We kept on the side road which led us right to the highway we needed to be on and to another police car directing traffic at the light. Now I’m totally baffled. The street light is working just fine so I’m guessing this has something to do with the mess a couple of blocks over. We hung a right onto a residential street, ran a few blocks and then cut back over to the highway. No problems from here.

I had pinpointed an address for this sign in my planning for this route, but as we got closer I decided to forgo that plan and just follow the signs to the park. I’m looking for a park sign and those don’t typically have addresses. I’m bound to run into one just entering the park. So I followed the signs and ended up at the visitors center. Spoke to a ranger who was able to confirm that my initial address was pretty much correct. Should probably trust my own research I guess.

I’m still pretty warm at this point and decide the jacket isn’t lasting the rest of the day so off it comes. I get it stowed away and head off into the park to find my sign, right where it was on my list, go figure. Off to the next one, a short 12 miles away.

Let’s go to Luckenbach, Texas! It’s a very short ride into Luckenbach. They’ve added a few buildings since the last time I was out here. I figured it’s Luckenbach so I’ve got to at least sit down for a beer, maybe two, there is live music after all. Music was OK but the beer was better. The skies have pretty much cleared out and I’m down to rolled up sleeves, a vest and sunglasses. I haven’t worn sunglasses since Oklahoma.

I helped a few folks with their post office photos and headed off. It’s now about 4:30 so I’ve a couple of stops left. The next one is less than ten miles away.

Fredericksburg is just down the road and so is the Texas Rangers Heritage Center, my next target. We get there quickly and find that there is an entrance and exit, the entrance gate is closed. On the gate are the hours, clearly posted and stating that closing time for today is 5:00pm. I check my phone for the time and notice it’s only 4:45. The exit gate is still open so we snuck in as quiet as we could, Libby didn’t do so well with that.

We were inside for only a few minutes before heading off to our next stop. The entrance to the Heritage Center is at a stop light. Libby’s GPS wanted me to go through the light and make a quick left then right to get going towards our new destination. Problem was, the area across the light was a gated community. We’re gonna have to try something else. Hung a right and corrected the issue.

Another short twenty miles into Comfort. This town is nice. Has a very comfy feel too it. I could see myself living comfortably here. Alright, enough of that. This first stop is the mural on the side of a business in town. Nothing really special about from what I can tell but it’s part of the tour. The sky has all but cleared by this point, still some clouds hanging around but mostly clear blue skies. On to the next stop, less than a mile away.

The Treue Der Union Monument is a German language monument that was built in 1868. It was built in to honor the memory of 68 men, mostly German, who were loyal to the Union during the Civil War. They tried desperately to reach US federal troops by way of Mexico and around 40 of them were killed by confederates. The bodies of the slain, and those who drowned in the Rio Grande, were left unburied. A group of Germans gathered the bones of their friends and buried them at this site in 1865.

It’s a sad feeling seeing this. Reminds me of photos Dad shared of the Wounded Knee monument (think that’s the one). That one is very unkept. This one looks good but there’s a business next to it and houses across the street. I can’t imagine the locals pay any mind to it.

Our last stop for today. Another short ride to the Veterans Assistance Dogs of Texas in Kerrville. These folks provide trained service dogs to assist the lives of disabled veterans living across Texas. The dogs are provided to veterans who suffer from Post-Traumatic Stress (PTSD), Military Sexual Trauma (MST) and physical disabilities. The work they do is awesome but, as with any organization such as this, donations play a vital role. Their website is http://www.vadogs.org. You can check them out and donate if you wish. It’s a great cause and I get absolutely zero from it.

From here it’s time to find our way back to town to find a place to rest. The day started pretty crummy but ended beautifully, aside from the GPS’s second snafu that sent us from here to a dead end and eventually to another gated community, then down the interstate four miles for a u-turn four miles back.

Most of today was great. I got to stop for lunch, returned to regular riding gear and was in the sun. There’s a lot of memories for me out here in this area. The Twisted Sisters trip Dad and I took is close. We spent the night here in Kerrville. I’m sure, no I know, tomorrow’s path will lead to more familiar places. I’ve had fun running this tour the last two days. It’s like a biker’s treasure hunt, only I know where the treasures are. But I wish I had someone running with me. I wish I had Dad.

I’ve grown accustomed to riding alone. Libby and Bertha are fully mine now. I hear their pipes behind me all the time. But I sure miss hearing them beside me. It’s a different sound entirely.

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