Cold start today. Was up around 7:00am again. Internal clock battery still has some juice. Day started at a cool, crisp low 50’s temp. I neglected to pack my jacket or a sweatshirt. Or anything warmer than my rain jacket. Luckily I was able to borrow one in Clovis. It will be returned with a little more wear on it but was much appreciated today. Had to put it on just breaking down camp. This Texas boy ain’t used to the 50’s this time of year.
Got all my gear packed away and loaded up. Met a nice lady who chatted me up for a few minutes. Miss Lexy. She was traveling alone, up the coast with her little pull behind camper. Not alone, she had her pup with her. Nice lady and very sympathetic when I told her my story. We parted ways and I decided I was going to need another layer. I am now the proud owner of a Willits, CA KOA hoodie. I was thankful for the jacket but was shivering just putting my gear away and I was headed towards Eureka, high today of 58 degrees.
I left out a little before 9:00am as planned and headed towards the coast. I had begun to get into the trees yesterday at the end of my run. Today was exceptional. Cold, but exceptional. I wound my way through the northern California mountains and forests. Twistys on mountain roads can be a bit hair raising but are still fun if you’re keeping your head in the game. Gotta pay attention. I was less than a hundred miles to Eureka and it still took me two hours to get there. The sun hung out for about half the trip, then disappeared as I neared the coast.
By the time I reached Eureka my hands were feeling the cold and I was holding off the shivers as best I could. I stopped for a gas up and pit stop. I had noticed signs for a Harley dealership coming into town and decided I’d stop to pick up some cold weather gloves (didn’t pack those either). Talked with the guy behind the parts counter. Eureka is under cloud cover almost 75% of the year and temps are in the fifties pretty much year round. Coastal life would be fun, but not here. I need the sun, and slightly higher temps.
Too cold on the coast. I’m moving inland where it’s warmer. Another 80 miles to Crescent City before I can cut inland. Shortly after leaving Eureka I was able to pull off and get a good look at the Pacific and a few photos.
Cloud cover was very low on the coast. Best guess, this hill is 50-100 feet taller than what can be seen and is directly behind the photo of the Pacific above. As I wound my way along the coast I found myself riding through the forest, and the clouds. An amazing experience. Also a little nerve wracking. Didn’t last long but throwing fog-like conditions into forested, twisty roads made me a bit nervous.
After reaching Crescent City I cut inland and back into mountain roads and redwood forests. Even hit another tunnel, ran through two yesterday. Tunnels can be fun, in a car, with kids who aren’t on your nerves yet. But on a bike? They generally reek of exhaust and are extremely loud. The sun eventually returned and the temps began to rise.
Finally get out of California and into Oregon. Stopped in a place called Cave Junction to fill up. Ended up stopping at a full service gas station. They let me take care of myself and I found out later that Oregon law doesn’t allow you to pump your own gas. As I got closer to Grant’s Pass, I could not only smell, but see smoke. The smoke in this part of the state was so bad that I could barely make out the hill right in front of me. Keep in mind I’m still in the mountains so those hills are literally right in front of me. Nothing much to see in Oregon yet. Not that it’s not there, just can’t see it. Still a lot of forest which is always a nice ride.
Dad would have enjoyed the hell out of today’s leg. So far I’ve traveled 2,441.1 miles. I’ll cross the half way mark on my trek through Washington state tomorrow. Sleep well my fiends.
The Motorcycle Diaries of an Easy Rider 